🔗 Share this article

When curating a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end venues. Yet, nestled high among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the owners completely shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” states the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest shop securing such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary triumph.